odo New York

Visited in February 2025
Lunch
Rating: Two Michelin Macarons

My trip to the USA ended culinary with a visit to the Kaiseki restaurant odo.
Kaiseki Ryori (懐石料理) is a traditional multi-course Japanese dining experience with each course defined by a particular cooking method, using seasonal ingredients to create delicate balance of texture, taste, and visuals.
Two seatings are offered here at lunchtime, one at 12 noon and the other at 1:45 pm.
When you enter the location, you first walk through a somewhat dark bar area and then through a very dark corridor, where they take your jacket. The actual restaurant is then a kitchen-counter area made of light-colored wood, where 12 guests can be seated. A menu neither can be viewed in advance on the website nor is available afterwards.
In addition to the usual water, I ordered a Yuzu Breeze mocktail made with yuzu, honey, soda water and mint. It tasted excellent and was obviously homemade, as it contained real yuzu zest.

I had also announced that I would like a glass of sake later in the menu. But they didn’t come back to that.
Right at the beginning, I was able to observe how wooden crates were being handled, in which sea urchins from Hokkaido are usually delivered.

Sakizuke (先付け)
An appetizer that sets the tone for the meal, featuring seasonal ingredients

The starter set a very high level, with sea urchin and caviar as ingredients. A rectangular preparation of tofu, which had a pudding-like consistency, was accompanied by a gel-like dashi broth and yuzu abrasion. The combination tasted excellent.

We continued with Owan (お椀),
a warm soup dish.

A doughy piece made from glutinous rice was served alongside mushrooms and baby spring onions in a beautifully mild white miso soup.

This was followed by Yakimono (焼き物)
a grilled dish, often featuring fish or meat

Thin grilled slices of Wagyu, A4 quality, with Sancho pepper as the only spice had deep fried tofu chips and a very excellent salad of lotus root, cucumber, little carrot julienne, crushed peanuts and shiso flowers to accompany. The meat was fantastic, both in terms of quality and preparation.

Sticky rice, seaweed, pickled ginger, wasabi, shiso, chutoro (medium-fat tuna), madai (red seabream) and ikura (salmon roe)
Very nice combination of rice, vegetarian ingredients of different flavors (salty, sour, spicy, fresh, earthy, umami) and textures (crispy, soft, crunchy, grainy, creamy) and two different pieces of very good quality fish.

At the end of a Japanese menu of this type, a filling course is usually served, with noodles or rice as the main component. Here, homemade soba noodles in dashi and a kind of shabu- shabu made from high-quality Wagyu meat have been combined in this cold dish with micro shiso, chives, radish sprouts and a Japanese version of bottarga.

Dessert (デザート)
The final course, features seasonal fruits or delicate sweets for a light and refreshing finish

Milk ice cream, a scoop of chestnut puree, meringue, some cookies as a base, matcha powder and a tuile made up the final dessert. This was served with smoked hot tea.

Summary

High-level ingredients were prepared by applying traditional Japanese cooking techniques. This was different from the usual Japanese meals that are typically arranged around a sashimi or sushi core. These 6 courses in part combined preparations that I knew before, e.g. the shabu shabu type of meat with the soba noodles. Everything tasted well and for me, the restaurant is worth a return visit.

Website of the restaurant: odo

Underwater Love Zürich

Visited April 2024
Dinner
Rating: without

At irregular intervals, three ladies offer a pop-up in Zurich’s Seefeld district, serving a five-course menu based on fish and seafood. I had already been here last year and quite liked it, so I was curious to see what they would serve this time. The menu is not announced in advance on the Internet.
The selection of wines, which are offered by the glass or bottle, is limited and also relatively special.
This time we started with a greenish aperitif in a low long-drink glass with aniseed, mint, sparkling mineral water, and ice.
It was followed by the first snack, which was also listed on the menu written in English.

This was a very nice treat for the palate. A folded brown baked toast rich in oil was filled with shrimp, which brought out the sweetness that is often characteristic of crustaceans. I did not notice the ginger. I didn’t use the as well skewered lime. It was a delight anyway.

Mackerel – rhubarb – cucumber – labné – bottarga

Mackerel tartare, rhubarb slices, and small pieces of raw cucumber formed a kind of salad with a nicely balanced vinaigrette with not too much acidity.
Good light bread with labné was served separately. Labné, which is Lebanese labneh, is a whipped cream made from hung yogurt. It can be used as a substitute for butter. Here, chives and bottarga di mugine, dried fish roe, were used as toppings.

Black tiger – fennel – pernod – feta – tarragon

A fried, half-shelled, large black tiger prawn was accompanied by pickled feta, whose chili pieces added an interesting spiciness. The plate also featured fennel cooked al dente and some tarragon. Pernod was used in the sauce.

Salmon – pomelo – castel franco – almonds
Wine: 2020 slobodne, majer blanc, slowakia

Very nice mild smoked salmon with a pleasant texture came on Castel Franco, a special type of radicchio salad, in the style of Cesar’s salad with pieces of pomelo fillet, roasted almonds, and a very fine vinaigrette. I thought I could taste coffee aromas. But these probably came from the poppy seeds, which were also sprinkled on top.

Yellow fin tuna – avocado – coriander – leek

A wonton cracker was topped with thin slices of yellowfin tuna, marinated mango, avocado cream, chili, and leek straw. The fresh coriander had been left out for me.

Monkfish – sorrel – asparagus – currant
Wine: 2021, dominó, foxtrot, alentejo, portugal

The main course used monkfish, the “poor man’s lobster”, in two forms as the central ingredient. On a bed of sorrel were pieces of fillet and liver seasoned with a little fleur de sel of monkfish, purple potato, green asparagus, and currants.

I had no more room for a dessert, which was on the menu as an extra course. It was as far as I have seen chocolate mousse with raspberries.

Summary

Good quality ingredients especially for the fish and seafood, interesting combinations, and proper execution make this a valuable dinner option for people who like food from the seas. The menu is announced to be “French-inspired”, meaning rather Bistro than fine dining cuisine. And that is exactly what it is.
Service was again flawless.

Website: Underwaterlove french inspired fish and seafood pop-up restaurant Zurich

Le Calandre Rubano

Lunch
Visited: October 2022
Rating: 3 Michelin Macarons

We visited Le Calandre for the first time in 2018, had the menu “classico” and were very pleased. On being in the area for the autumn holidays, I took the chance and called them on Tuesday for a reservation the same week. They had free tables for lunch on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday. We even could take our small dog with us.

When we arrived, we were guided to a table in a relatively bright area of a room that normally seems to be used for bigger parties. At the table, we already found on each place a tissue sleeve with four bread specialties and two bowl shaped pastries on skewers.

As usual the menu “classico” is offered and two other menus called “max” and “raf” which contain more seasonal ingredients. Since we had the most suited menu for those with intolerances and allergies at the first visit, we decided for à la carte. I ordered a Vie de Romans Sauvignon Blanc Vieris 2020 as wine companion.

These whole-wheat pastries were so light and fluffy that you could keep them in the mouth and they slowly dissolved.

A demonstration of what is possible in a variety if you use different kinds of wheat, spices, and grains for the creation of quite different bread. Some were very good; others did not match the taste of us eaters.

Amuses bouches: tartelette with tuna sauce and capers, crispy parmesan roll with lime, a caramelized anchovie with olive cream, fruit gel

The tartelette was really good, the very crispy roll only discloses cheese taste but not lime, the little fish shaped amuse was good.

Warm bread with olive oil from Sicily served on little white porcelain handles with indentation

Jelly of mackerel, caviar, cold tuna belly foam, bottarga disk

This, I wanted to have again – the only repetition from our first visit.
I had the impression that last time it was a real, more dense ice cream and the proportions of the compounds were better balanced. Still a very good and impressive course.

CALDO FREDDO OF PUMPKIN ORANGE, COFFEE AND WALNUTS

From the menu raf: bowl of warm pumpkin orange puree with coffee sauce at the rim and walnut, pumpkin, orange, and gold decoration. Second bowl with walnut ice cream and decoration of the other components.

CRISPY RICOTTA, MOZZARELLA AND STRACCIATELLA CANNELLONE WITH TOMATO PASSATA

From the menu classico: three with ricotta cream filled crispy rolls, burrata with olive oil, a pastry pillow filled with basil cream and very aromatic tomato sauce served separately.

SMOKED TAGLIOLINI WITH EGG YOLK AND SMOKED BROTH

From the menu classico: al dente cooked spaghetti, egg yolk pepper sauce, guanciale ham jelly cubes of broth and a dried egg yolk on top. In a beaker, à part smoked broth was served with the recommendation to drink it after. A modern interpretation of carbonara.

PENNONI PASTA, INTINGOLO OF SOLE, CAPERS AND GEWÜRZTRAMINER WITH SEA URCHIN POWDER

From the menu max: Sounds fancy but promised more than it revealed in the end. Very al dente cooked pasta, sauce with sole pieces, aromatized with Gewürztraminer and capers. Sea urchin powder on top. I guess the sea urchin powder covered it all with a fishy taste so that no other tastes had the chance to compete with it.

From the menu max: 3 green and 3 beige colored ravioli filled with shellfish cream, artichokes, picked spider crab meat, lime oil and basil sauce. OK, but not overwhelming.

The next course I wanted to order was
FRIED SOFT-SHELL CRABS WITH FIG BLOODY MARY

Unfortunately, the supplier did not deliver the main ingredient of that course that day. “Moeche”, soft shell crab, has season in the Venetian lagoon in spring and autumn but this autumn is too warm so the season starts later. This might be the reason for the delivery problems. We know that from calls in other restaurants, which serve Moeche normally.

Instead, they offered a sea snail course but I decided for purple sole from the menu raf.

Two rolled filets of sole come with a purple potato puree with capers, raw radicchio, and pomegranate seeds. An unspectacular course that does not show its ingredients from the best side.

Pre-dessert: apple rose water, salty plum, cinnamon pear

From the menu max: discs of pear, fig, blackberry, and pear, soft meringue from aqua fava, crispy roll with fruit sorbet. Is this a dessert you’d expect from a restaurant with highest accolade?

Excellent dessert and a big enjoyment for those on the table who had it. Unfortunately, they do not offer anymore the spectacular chocolate game which was available in different versions throughout the years. You can see some of them in Massimiliano Alajmo’s book “Ingredients”.

Mignardises: Remember almond – Marzipan, coffee, walnut; rice crispy with black cherry, soft meringue and chocolate; vanilla ice cream and plum

Summary

While you find a lot of reviews about other Italian 3 macaron restaurants like Osteria Francescana, you do not hear much internationally about Le Calandre. It is perhaps better that way.
In contrary to our first visit I was disappointed. Probably my expectations were too high. Most of the courses we chose were missing the twist that one expects from a restaurant of this quality and price level.
A word about the pricing policy. I absolutely agree that high quality food has a certain price tag and I am willing to pay that if it rewards me with high pleasure and extraordinary experiences. This was with few exceptions not the case during this visit.
Since 2018, the menu bill has increased by almost 25% and is now close to 300 Euros. I doubt, that a carbonara is worth 60 Euros when ordered à la carte.

The service was impeccable and for me above expectation.

Glam by Enrico Bartolini Venedig

Mittagessen
Besucht am 09.10.2020
Bewertung: Zwei Michelin Macarons

Im Herbst sind wir für einen Tag nach Venedig zurückgekehrt, um einiges nachzuholen, das wir im Sommer hier nicht “erledigen” konnten. Dazu zählte ein Besuch im Restaurant Glam by Enrico Bartolini und einer auf der Dachterrasse der Fondaco dei Tedeschi.

Enrico Bartolini betreibt mehrere Restaurants in Italien. Sein Hauptrestaurant ist wohl das al Mudec in Mailand, welches mit drei Macarons ausgezeichnet ist.

Wir starteten unser Mittagessen um 13:15 Uhr.

Es dauerte jetzt erst einmal eine geschlagene Viertelstunde bis wir erste Getränke geordert hatten und uns die Speise- und Weinkarten gereicht wurden.

Mein Wunsch nach Beratung an den Sommelier bezüglich eines fruchtig frischen Weissweins wurde mit einer Empfehlung zu einem Campi Flegrei Piedirosso 2015 von Contrada Salandra aus Kampanien beantwortet. Dieser war zwar weniger fruchtig, als ich erhofft hatte, zeichnete sich aber durch einen interessanten Abgang mit Honignoten aus und passte letztendlich gut zum Menü.

Nach Absprache entschieden wir uns für das 8-9 Gang Überraschungsmenü ohne Meeresfrüchte und Innereien für meine Frau.

Nun wurden viele Amuses bouches an den Tisch gebracht. Zwei Servicemitarbeiter mussten dazu je zweimal kommen.

Cracker in Pilzform auf einer Lebercrème

Dies war eine sehr schöne Interpretation des Baccalà-Cicheti, welches man in den Weinbars in Venedig als Snack bekommt. Die sogenannten „Cicchetti“ sind eben delikate Häppchen (kleine Speisen und Snacks), die man in den Weinbars (genannt Bacari) von vormittags bis spätabends bekommt.

Frigella-Brot mit marinierten Anchovis, Ruccola, Mayonnaise und Zitronenabrieb

Sehr gut.

Klassische Kombination mit einer sehr feinen Ei-Crème.

Mit Tomatenpaste und Auberginen-Crème gefüllte Teigkissen, darauf ein kleines weisses Stück Lardo

Ein letzter Gruss aus der Küche wurde gereicht.

Tartar vom Seebarsch im Briochebrötchen mit Ponzu

Sehr lecker! Man beachte das auf dem Deckel eingearbeitete Salz und die filigrane Dekoration.

Das war jetzt eine Menge Vorgeplänkel und wir waren schon fast ein und eine halbe Stunde im Restaurant. Ich sah schon unsere Reservation auf der Dachterrasse dahingehen…

Im Gegensatz zu den anderen Gourmetrestaurants, die wir innerhalb einer Woche besucht hatten, wurde unserer Tochter hier angeboten, etwas aus dem “normalen” Restaurant des Hotels zu bestellen, was sie mit dieser guten Carbonara auch tat.

Erster Gang, von dem ich leider vergessen habe, ein Foto zu machen: Zucchini aus Sant’Erasmo, Ei und Strike-Bier. Dieser Teller bestand aus zwei dünnen, langen “Baby”-Zucchini und dem Teil einer grösseren Zucchini, die genau zum richtigen Biss gedämpft waren, einem Eigelb, unter dem sich ein schwarzes Pulver befand und etwas Dekoration drumherum.

Acquadelle-Fisch mit Saucen: Ponzu-Sauce, schwarze Tintenfisch-Tinten-Sauce, salzige Limonensauce, Orangen-Gel

Dieses Gericht war spannender als der Name auf den ersten Blick suggeriert. Die frittierten Fische waren auf vier verschiedenen Saucen angerichtet und diese wiederum mit verschiedenen Kräutern (Minze, Dill, Salbei, Petersilie usw.) belegt. Durch die unterschiedliche Kombination der knusprig frittierten Fische mit Sauce und Kraut ergaben sich immer wieder andere Geschmacksbilder. Herrlich, allein hat mir die Ponzu-Sauce am besten geschmeckt.

Nun wurde ein geviertelter, runder, warmer Vollkornbrotlaib und ein Bottich mit aufgeschlagener Butter aus der Normandie serviert (ohne Foto).

Interpretation einer Parmigiana: Ofen-gebackene Aubergine, Peccorino-Käse, Sauce aus frischen Tomaten und ein Kräuter-Pesto.

Geräucherter Tintenfisch mit Myrthe, frittierter Tintenfisch, Blumenkohl, Sauce von schwarzer Tinte

Meine Frau bekam eine vegetarische Alternative mit Rosenkohl? (ohne Foto)

Meine Tochter orderte zwischendurch noch ein Schokoladen-Eiscrème-Dessert.

Wacholder-Risotto, Praline von der Kalbsbacke und Chicorée-Saft

Sehr gut die Praline, bissfest das Risotto, herzhaft die braune Sauce. Leider trug der doch sehr bittere grüne Chicorée-Saft nicht gerade positiv zum Geschmackserlebnis bei.

Lamm aus den Dolomiten Lucane, rote Paprika, grüne Sauce und Estragon

Das Fleisch war von hervorragender Qualität und hatte eine knusprige essbare Kruste auf dem Fettrand.

Sehr erfrischend und nicht zu sauer. Zum Zeitpunkt des Fotos hatte ich schon etwas davon gegessen.

Dessert erster Teil: Schokoladensorbet, Milch von Joghurt und weisser Schokolade, Schokoladenblätter, Schokoladen-Crumble mit Gewürzen

Die Gewürze hatten es in sich. Sie fügten eine interessante Schärfe hinzu.

Dessert zweiter Teil: Schokoladenschaum über Schokoladenwasser, gewürzt mit dem Orangengeschmack der Tanacetum-Blume

Petit Fours von oben nach unten: Vanille Beignets, Tiramisu, Eiscrème-Sticks Waldfrüchtegeschmack, Weisse-Schokoladenkugel mit Gewürzen, Kapern-Kaffeebutter-Macaron, Passionsfrucht-Limonen- Tartelets

Nun war es 16:30 Uhr und wir hatten unsere Reservation auf der Fondaco die Tedeschi verpasst. Die Carbonara und die Eiscrème für das Kind wurden nicht berechnet.

Fazit
Es fliesst jeden Tag eine Menge Wasser den Canal Grande in Venedig herunter. Hier in diesem Restaurant, unweit des Canal Grande gelegen, würde ich das Tempo des Essens aber mit zwei Worten zusammenfassen – no flow.

Mir hat es allerdings gut geschmeckt. Die Zutaten waren von guter Qualität, die Zubereitung makellos. Bis auf einige wenige Ausnahmen stimmte auch die Kombination von Geschmäckern und Texturen. Ob ich hier auch im Vergleich mit anderen Restaurants dieser Kategorie zwei Macarons vergeben würde, bleibt dahingestellt.