Restaurant Stéphane Décotterd Glion

Dinner
Visited in April 2022
Bewertung: none yet, Gault Millau Switzerland 18/20 points

After visiting Pont de Brent for the first time last summer, which was run by the same team, I was very surprised to hear that this restaurant had closed short after my visit. One of the menu courses then, and it was the bean salad, made it onto the list of the 10 best courses I had eaten in restaurants in 2021. Madame Decotterd and her husband, Stéphane, opened two restaurants at once at a new location in fall of 2021: Glion above Montreux. These are somewhat easier to reach than Brent. Madame Decotterd came to the table later and, when asked about the change, replied that sometimes there are opportunities in life that you have to seize quickly. This was apparently the case here. In July 2021, it was not yet clear that they would be in a different place in September. There was a bit of nostalgia, she said, as her husband had cooked for 10 years under the previous chef at Brent and then run Pont de Brent as owner for another 10 years.

The restaurant is not yet rated by the Guide Michelin, because it was opened only in fall of 2021 and the publication date of 2022 edition was postponed to fall.

Tip: If, like me, you have the idea to walk to the restaurant from Montreux, it would be good to allow enough time. 1.3 kilometers and 15 minutes announced by navigation app could become very long…. I’ll just write: 1000 steps.

The location is a very nice place high above Lac Leman with a view on Montreux, the Rhone delta and the French shore of Lake Geneva. If you have a window seat in the gourmet restaurant, which is equipped with large windows, you can enjoy this view for a long time.

Dining choices include a 5-course or 7-course menu and à la carte offerings. I opted for the shorter menu without cheese and (unfortunately) without morels. At this new location, the menu is now available in English.

A wine pairing is offered. I opted for this, but expressed the strong wish to avoid orange wines.

Mises-en-Bouche: Soft biscuit with pike mousse (without photo), pillow filled with arctic char and topped with raw ham, vaccherin cheese sticks

This was a very good start and the most unspectacular looking and sounding was the best. Indeed, the cheese sticks were very crispy and filled with an extremely tasty cheese cream. The grated Vaccherin cheese on top did the rest. I was glad to have been served two of them.

The surf and turf themed pillow also tasted very interesting. The pike perch biscuit, which came along like a mini pie tranche, was rather unspectacular.

Salted butter

Arrived cold and therfore hard at the table.

Pumpkin seed bread

The bread selection contained three different kinds.

Marinated and Horseradish grilled Char, Radish Tartelet, tarragon and fava bean
Wine pairing: Coral 2020 Chardonnay Chasselas Cuvée Laurent Berthet, Lavaux, Vaud

Now the first course came, whose tartelette reminded me of the bean salad last year. In addition to the marinated and briefly flamed arctic char which shone through excellent fish quality, this small arranged tartlet was particularly convincing. It consisted of several layers of thin pastry and was filled with bent radish slices containing small cubes of the main ingredient fish. The tartlet also contained beans, trout caviar, sliced radish and the whole was held together by a light cream. Flowers and herbs completed the composition – a work of art. There was no need for the dabs of mayonnaise on the plate. The fish quality spoke for itself. The mayonnaise also lacked salt and a characteristic flavor that could be associated with the green color. Still, a very good course!
The wine went well with it, but for my taste is not suitable to be drunk alone.

Geneva Lake Féra flavored with Verbena, Chawanmushi of green peas and caviar
Wine pairing: Sauvignon Blanc Bovel 2021 Monika & Daniel Marrugg, Fläsch, Graubünden

My highlight of the evening was served here. For me, this was clearly a dish at Michelin three Macaron level. Rolled gently cooked fish strips were in a lake of Chawanmushi, in which peas of very good quality could be found. An herb oil rounded it all up. The dish was very subtly flavored with verbena. This was topped with a wafer that had neat ossietra caviar on it. A perfect plate!

I really liked the Sauvignon Blanc and it went well with it too.

Tips of green asparagus with Verjuice, nettles and black garlic raviolo
Wine pairing: Viognier 2021 Gilbert Devayes

The next course was vegetarian. Top quality green asparagus tips were the main component. In the middle of the warm plate, under the verjus sabayon, was an al dente raviolo filled with black garlic cream. This was framed by thin slices of white asparagus and finally with the asparagus tips. Young nettle leaves and dabs of black garlic completed the composition. One can be skeptical about combining asparagus with garlic, but as one would expect, it was perfectly balanced here as well. The addition of caramelized shallots and a bit of honey to the fermented garlic took away the dominance of the garlic in the flavor and it was a perfect match. The flavor reminded me a bit of mild plum jam with acidity and fruit.

Loin and shoulder of lamb from Dents du Midi, cornmeal tacos with smoked paprika juice
Wine pairing: Cabernet Franc 2020 Vincent Chollet, Lavaux

The main course was a piece of lamb loin wrapped in chard. Provided the meat is of good quality, you can’t really go far wrong with its preparation – as was the case here. More interesting were the other two larger preparations. One was a cabbage leaf stuffed with lamb confit like a large raviolo. A jus with brunoise of smoked paprika was added at the table. On a wild garlic leaf (which was not thought to be eaten) à part was served a cornmeal taco filled with roasted strips of lamb shoulder, corn, bell peppers, fried onion rings and a light crème. Light cilantro flavors I could also detect. Monsieur Decotterd apologized and stated that they were not able to remove the cilantro completely. OK for me.

Sablé with praline of cooked wine and dark chocolate
Beignet filled with black currant cream
Bricelets Fribourgeois: Crispy roll filled with hazelnut cream, a typical sweet of the area.

The wait for desserts was shortened by these three mignardises.

Pink Rhubarb and Isotta Herbal Vermouth, sorbet, light milky mousse

Rhubarb, vermouth and almond – that’s all it takes to create the perfect dessert. This was the best rhubarb dessert I have ever tasted. Almond custard in the center, pink rhubarb and vermouth sorbet next to it, marinated rhubarb and then three turrets, each on sablé platforms and with rhubarb walls. One filled with almond cream, one with vermouth gel and one with rhubarb-brunoise compote, plus dabs of almond cream and vermouth gel. I can’t remember the taste of the yellow sauce.

Baba imbibed with old rhum and Jorat saffron, ice cream with mountain honey
Pairing: Hydromel Artisanal Domaine de Rueyes Laurent Cossy

The main actor in the second dessert was the Baba, that is, the pastry in the middle nicely soaked with rhum, but without alcohol flavor. That was intended so. The rhum was previously reduced to an almost syrupy liquid and then used. Saffron gel and saffron sponge were also present. The saffron was grown in Switzerland. Between the pastry slices, on top with honeycomb pattern, was a mountain honey vanilla ice cream, finally almond crumble and rhum and honey flavored cream. Nice varied dessert, which couldn’t quite keep up with the rhubarb composition before. The better is the enemy of the good!

Dark chocolate leaf filled with pear and woodruff (Asperula flower) gel and something I do not remember

Conclusion

This was, all in all, a compelling dinner that I really enjoyed. It was better in almost all respects than the lunch I had at Pont de Brent. I wonder if the fantastic surroundings are inspiring. I am convinced that this is where the two macarons will shine again in the fall. I’d like to come here again.

Website of the restaurant: Restaurant Stéphane Décotterd

Review of my visit at Pont de Brent.

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Ristorante Venissa Burano

Lunch
Visited July 2021
Awards: One Michelin Macaron

I had the feeling in advance that it will not be the best experience for my family. If you have family members that have special requirements do not go into restaurants which do not publish a menu on their website. Probably my mistake not to have taken the time for reading carefully what has been published on their website about their philosophy. This is a meat-free restaurant. They only use local and seasonal fish and seafood from the lagoon and vegetables from their own garden. There is no à la carte menu. You have the choice between a 5, 7 or 9 courses menu. We took the 5 courses menu. I had two glasses of wine with the menu, both white wines from their own vineyards. The venue is beautiful. You basically take lunch in their garden.

We arrived around one hour before our reservation at the vaporetto station Mazzorbo after a 40 minutes boat trip starting from Fontamente Nove in the north of Venice. A short walk direction Burano takes you to the hotel. I quickly jumped in to inform the restaurant that we will come to the restaurant in one hour and that some participants do eat fish but no seafood.

After we took place at the table water and home-made Grissini were served. My daughter liked the Grissini very much. They were made from corn wheat and also olive oil was used. They remind her on a popular cereal for breakfast…

Greetings from the kitchen were offered.

In the box: salt-crystallized wine leaves and tapioka cracker; in front miter pumpkin (german: Bischofsmütze) and bottarga
Whole grain bread with cucumber and mayonnaise; dumpling with fish tatar
Good warm bread and very good sicilian olive oil

Both very good taken on its own but did not fit very well together. A less intense white bread would highlight the quality of the olive oil better.

Variation of scallops, clams and mussels

When this was served, we first looked alienated to each other. This was noticed and the course was taken from the table. The waiter I was talking to when we arrived apologized a lot for this faux pas.

Marinated fish, walnuts, herb sauce

A kind of thick sashimi, very tender and mild. Probably not the first choice for a child.

Fried sardines, tomato cream, wild fennel sauce, sea fennel
Wine: Bianco Venusa 2018 from Dorona di Venezia grapes grown on the Island of Mazzorbo

A not very spectacular course. OK, but not more.

Spaghetti cooked in tuna broth, served with grape broth and with fermented sardines

Beautiful but again not very impressing from taste.

Green ravioli with bitter salads, fermented pine cream and various herbs
Cod pan-fried in butter, cod croquette, cod liver parfait, seaweed, bean rilette, green peppers, oregano
Wine: Venissa 2015 from Dorona grapes, 4 years in concrete tanks, 2 years bottle maturation

This was actually very good. The white wine was a very special one, very intense and it should have longevity.

Alternative vegetarian main course: Tempeh of chick peas, fermented soya and gooseberries

Tempeh is an originally Indonesian course with the main compound fermented soybeans. Also this main course tasted well.

Pré-dessert: Sorbet of cucumber, cucumerazzo, portulak, mint, olive oil

Cucumerazzo is a so called cucumber melon originating from the south of Italy.

Mille-feuille, thin slices of green tomato, peach, peach ragout and verbena ice cream
Mignardises
Fox grape jelly
Cypress marshmallow
Herbes beignet
Coffee almond macaron
Baci cocoa sphere

Summary

Nice venue and praiseworthy sustainable approach but unfortunately most of it not our taste.